First, make the biga a day before. Gently mix the yeast into the water, warmed to about 70ºF. Slowly add in the flour and mix until just smooth. It should be stiff and dense, but you can add a few drops of water if it seems overly dry. Cover the bowl tightly and leave for 12 to 16 hours at about 70ºF. You will know it’s ready because it should be domed and just beginning to fall in the middle.

Second, prepare the final dough. Add the dry “second portion” ingredients to a stand mixer, mix with the paddle, and then add about half of the water at about 72-75ºF and mix for 3-5 minutes in order to incorporate the ingredients. As it comes together, switch to the dough hook and begin adding the biga in chunks. Mix on second speed for several minutes, at least 5 min, to develop dough strength. You’re looking for a dough that is developing strong gluten. It will be fairly dry at this point. Once you have good strength going, add the remaining water by pulling the dough off the dough hook and pouring the water in there. Mix until the water is incorporated.

For the portion you are baking in the same day, put into a large, flat, shallow container, like the glass baking pan (which you can cover with plastic wrap or waxed canvas). Fold every 45 minutes, for three folds over three hours (with 45 minutes after the last fold, too).

At the end of the bulk ferment (regular or cold), remove the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Gently shape into an 8” square, the size of your pan, without pushing out too much air. Cover briefly – or cover and allow to sit if you’re unable to stretch it to full size right away. In order to get it to stretch, you may need to let it rest for a bit, especially if you’re doing this after the cold ferment.